Before I glued the floor down I cut some new interior walls from 0.040" styrene. I had to angle the tops to match the roof profile, and cut out notches for any interference areas. I didn't bother with a front wall because it can't be seen while looking through the front windows.
New England Northern Railway
This blog will be a record of my personal journey in researching, building, operating, and finally sharing my freelance O scale, three rail layout based on the railroads of New England.
Friday, March 28, 2025
Lumberyard scene (sales office)
Before I glued the floor down I cut some new interior walls from 0.040" styrene. I had to angle the tops to match the roof profile, and cut out notches for any interference areas. I didn't bother with a front wall because it can't be seen while looking through the front windows.
Friday, March 21, 2025
Lumberyard scene (large storage building)
The main focal point of the lumberyard scene was going to be the Atlas lumberyard kit.
I had built their HO kit years ago which came with a small shack for an office, but the O scale kit came with an Office that seemed more appropriate for the wild west than a small New England town.
The main building came molded in yellow and beige which were close to my selected colors, so it wasn't necessary to prime it. I cut the sides off their sprues and glued them together. Interestingly, the kit was designed to be left unglued to allow for disassembly and reboxing in the future. I don't know if that is common in O scale. The molded square friction "nubs" that allow it to be assembled/disassembled are a bit large and obnoxious but I hoped they wouldn't be distracting once finished. Maybe they will look like electrical boxes.
I glued the walls to the base and sprayed several light coats of Rustoleum "Strawflower" yellow.
The base was then painted a dark gray color to represent concrete, and I did that by hand to avoid masking. I also went around the lower outside edges of the wall to pick out that color. I really wanted to use light gray but my bottle of paint had dried out. Oh well.
The interior framing for the shelves comes molded in beige but I lightly misted the pieces with a different shade of beige (Rustoleum satin "Nutmeg"). Perfect coverage wasn't necessary as much will be hidden in shadows, and what does show through will look like weathering. But it did hide the plastic sheen.
You then take the elevated platform and snap it into position by interlocking it with more of those nubs on three sides, and then the two vertical rows of framing posts are supposed to drop over the platform. Easier said then done. Everything fit into place, but I couldn't force the framing posts down hard enough to sit into the holes molded in the base.
After trying every possible solution, I decided to whittle down the bottom ends of the posts so that they would slip into the holes easier. That worked! It turns out that the holes are square and the posts are slightly rectangular and the two wouldn't mesh. Possible interference from painting them didn't help.
Some superglue gel along the sides, and some more where everything overlapped and touched together, kept them secure. Inexpensive plastic clamps, and modified clothespins, held it all in place until the glue dried. Then, I went around and from the back added MEK to further reinforce the joints.
The wooden deck on the front of the platform looked pretty lame. So, I used some Northeastern Scale Lumber HO scale 3" x 10" boards (#HOSCAL31011) that I had in my stash which fortuitously I had already previously weathered with some of my ink and alcohol stains. They were cut into pieces that spanned five of the stringers and then attached. The front row of boards was left off until the railings were installed.
Speaking of those railings, they were supposed to represent wood but because they were molded square I didn't think they looked correct. Rather then replace them with stripwood which might get bumped or broken, I painted them gray to look like a welded metal railing.
I used dirt colored weathering powders on the inside and outside of the structure. It is a medium I am not all that familiar with but I wanted to replicate dirty wood and they seemed to work well. The framework was lightly weathered too. Then the exterior was sprayed with a flat sealer, but the inside was left alone as I doubt it will ever get handled.
For interior lights, I have standardized on 12-volt "warm white" surface mount (SMD) LEDs. They are tiny (10mm x 10mm), pre-wired, and cost less than a dollar each. Up until about 15 years ago most lights were yellowish in color, so these warm white ones replicate older light bulbs accurately.
I glued four to the underside of the roof. To protect the thin wires and tiny solder joints I glued pieces of styrene into the gaps along the roof with thick superglue gel. Once cured, I attached two bus bars made from brass stock I had on hand to allow me to wire them all in parallel. To keep the brass attached I used some cut off styrene tubing glued to the plastic I had attached earlier. Overkill? Perhaps, but fixing a broken one later on because I broke it wasn't something I was looking forward to.
The bus bars were attached to a pair of blue and yellow wires which were bent and run to the corner, and then secured with more styrene shapes. A quick test with a power pack confirmed they all worked!
To hide the wires I attached a piece of 3/8" Plastruct ABS square tubing that I painted to match the interior walls. I first drilled a hole in the base so the wires could get out.
There is no point in modeling a lumberyard if you aren't going to fill it with lumber, and the plastic molded boards wouldn't do. Thankfully, I had a huge pile of stripwood from previous projects lying around. Stripwood was expensive and I didn't want to "waste" it, but when I picked this building I knew I was going to use a lot of it up. To save wood I made many of them hollow on the inside. Two side boards and lots of bits on the ends to make up a "box" shape.
You can see below the hollow portion on two of them. Several others are also hollow inside but have full bottoms for support. Anyway you look at it, it used a lot of wood. Thank goodness for my bandsaw to cut them all to size quickly.
It took my about 4 hours to build up all the loads for the building, and I enjoyed every minute of it. I really like sitting at my workbench slowly plodding through a project and it is the little details such as this which transform a basic plastic kit into something special.
Finally, the outside surfaces of the roof were also sprayed gray, and then weathered with rust colored powders. And then it was finished, at least for now.
There are lots of extra details to add but I will wait until it is installed before I worry about them. Not bad for a weekend's worth of work.