Batten Kill Railroad RS3 #605

After spending a day in 2012 chasing the Batten Kill Railroad I knew there was something special about it. It is the only "local" shortline near me and its colorful Alco roster and picturesque setting reminded me of my favorite local railroad near where I grew up. 

During the start of the pandemic in June 2020 I visited the BKRR again. While there, I saw engine #605 which has been out-of-service for a while with a damaged turbo generator. I have never seen it in operation, which is a shame, but I was still able to take some pictures.  

Note that part of the front pilot is missing. I don't know if this was sacrificed to keep their other Alco RS3 #4116 going or not, but it looked sad. However, the rest of the paint scheme has held up remarkably well for almost 40 years. 

I decided I wanted needed a model of this engine.

Everything about it was neat, from the classification lamps to the corner number boards, and the four-color scheme with silver stripes and trim was really sharp. So, I filed it away in my future "to do" pile.

In the summer of 2021 I had joined the local TTOS chapter. I didn't have a layout, but wanted to start collecting "scale" (1:48) trains which run on three-rail track. And having worked with a local custom painter before on an HO scale RS11 project, I knew this could be my chance to have a model of #605. 

During my research I came across references to the "Batten Kill Limited" and "Batten Kill Rambler" passenger excursion trains run by the BKRR. The image below is from a postcard dated May 1984 showing a very clean engine pulling two matching coaches. I wanted my engine to match the appearance in the picture, and it also inspired me to try and model the entire train (to be continued...). 

Engine #605 was built by Alco in Schenectady in November 1950 and assigned works number #78369. It was purchased by the Lehigh and Hudson River Railroad as their #10, and later sold in 1972 to the St. James and Lamoille County Railroad as their #203. In 1976, it was sold to the Vermont Railway and renumbered #605, and finally in 1984 it was acquired by the BKRR who kept the engine number. Below is a shot from December 1984..

I then looked at various O gauge Alco RS3 models. Those made by Lionel and MTH either aren't scale (true 1:48 proportion) or had molded on grab irons and other details that didn't look very good. I didn't want to get super involved with the project by shaving off and replacing things. So, I went with a Williams by Bachmann engine, which used old K-line tooling. IT had separately applied wire grab irons and other free-standing details which looked great. Only a few items would need modification. I picked up a new engine decorated for the Seaboard System (they didn't sell undecorated models) from Trainworld for a nice price.

While this was happening I researched decals. I didn't want to deal with custom decals, and if I couldn't find a set commercially available I would give up on the project. I contacted Highball Graphics and discovered their LO-236 set is perfect for BKRR #605. It was promptly ordered.

Changes to the locomotive model that I considered "mandatory" included adding classification lights and number boards at the corners, relocating the three-trumpet horn* to its proper location, and blanking off some of the middle cab windows above the hoods. The classification lamps came from Precision Scale Company (#4248), as did the clear jewels that went inside them (#48329). They also provided the three-chime Alco air horn (#56191). I didn't bother filling in the cab windows with styrene and putty but instead just asked the painter to spray right over them. That resulted in them looking like they had been blanked out with steel plate.

*A note about the horn: a lot of pictures online show various locations and types of horns on #605 over the years, including a single-trumpet horn mounted on the side of the short hood; the multi-chime horn mounted in front of the cab on the long hood (and later on the top of the cab); and Hancock 4700 air horns mounted on both ends of the hoods. Look at the pictures above of #605 from 2020 and you will see the gray air horns at the very ends. They sound like steam engine whistles, and I don't know why the BKRR added them Since they weren't mounted on the engine in May of 1984, I didn't need to add them.

My painter works out of Milepost Hobbies, a great train store in upstate New York. This was not his first BKRR engine, and he knew exactly what he was doing. Still, I thought it helpful to write down everything I wanted and include pictures and directions to avoid misunderstandings. He scratchbuilt the corner number boards for me and he also replaced the single-beam headlight castings on the ends of the hoods with horizontal dual-beam castings. I didn't even know he was going to do that, but they look awesome.

The painting is exquisite and the colors really pop. This could be considered a gaudy paint scheme, but I love it. Those yellow diagonal stripes along the walkways really take it to the next level. And, because I am modeling the engine as it was freshly painted in 1984, I didn't even need to weather it! (Though if you look at the pictures taken in 2022 above, it really hasn't weathered too much over the years).

Ironically, I had just received my engine back from the painter when in April 2023 the E-Z Catch Train Shop announced a special custom run of this engine by MTH. I think mine looks better, though I would have ordered the MTH one had it been announced a year or so earlier.

The engine was the easy part. The coaches stumped me for over two years though I finally figured out a way to model them, But that part of the story will have to wait.

Simple block control

Three sidings on the layout will have the option to cut their power. This is to allow me to park extra engines if I want to. I didn't bother to wire up those tracks for dual-power input (via SPDT switches). Instead, I simply heavy duty SPST toggles that I mounted on a metal outlet box blank cover plate and inside an inexpensive blue outlet box. I used 16g wire to make all the connections.

The control box is mounted under the layout right near the edge and it is a simple matter to reach underneath and feel for the switch to toggle. The wires exits the box and goes to a terminal block on the right. This allows me to easily relocate the box in the future if necessary, and also make troubleshooting easier. 

Only one track siding is currently laid, as the other two are waiting for me to move onto the left section of the layout. But, for the main joint between the two sections I have a larger terminal block and I ran wires from the toggle box to that. This is probably overkill for this layout, but I would rather be overly-neat than messy.

Up until about 25 years ago, this method was the "standard" way to wire up a layout for multi-train control except that two transformers would go to the toggle switches. Now, even three-rail trains have been taken over with Command Control systems. Oh well... such is progress.

Weathering Maine Central and Conrail cabooses

Here is a project that has taken me several years. I started it before I even had an O scale layout but wanted to dip my foot into the O scale pool. The model was a MTH Maine Central #651 wide vision caboose that I had purchased at a train show. I had just finished weathering a D&H caboose and wanted to do this one, so I printed out some online reference pictures and got ready to begin. But, my wife went into labor so I set it on hold without having done a single thing. 

While Harrison was in the hospital I started a different project instead (which I will discuss in the future) and this got pushed aside until recently when I wanted something I could quickly complete. I dusted off the pictures, pulled out the model, and got to work.

I planned to completely disassemble it to remove the window glass, which for me is easier than masking it to protect it from the weathering effects. But, there were so many wires running between the trucks and the interior lights that I gave up and put it back together. So, the windows would get grungy. Based on the pictures I was using, that was prototypical.

The prototype pictures didn't show much rust or carbody damage in the early 1980s but it was filthy, and that is how I modeled it. I first gave everything a light spray of Tamiya flat finish to give the weathering some tooth, Then, I mixed a wash of raw umber oil paint and mineral spirits and went over everything with a soft 1" brush. I especially made sure to get inside the end porches. 

A few days later I went back with a smaller, stiffer brush and I focused on the ends where mud is thrown up from the wheels. I stippled on some paint and then smoothed it over with more mineral spirits. I also added more wash to the handrails, ladders, and other areas that needed it.

Next, I dabbled on some black paint anywhere that oil and grease might collect, like the grab irons and ladders. Grubby hands mean grubby cabooses. In general, I am careful to limit where I use black paint.

Focusing on the trucks, I first painted the faces of the wheels brown. Then they were drybrushed with various shades of brown and rusty orange. The couplers got the same treatment, using care not to gum them up. While those colors were out, I went over the smokejacks, brake wheels, and the underframe as well. Finally, the shiny silver axles were painted black to minimize their bulk. After that, I sealed everything with another spray of flat finish.

As I was putting that caboose away I remembered I had a similar, used Conrail MTH caboose that also needed some weathering. When I pulled it out, I was dismayed to find that the roof walks were broken. However, prototype pictures showed that by the late 1970s the real Conrail caboose had no roof walks either. Perhaps that was what the previous owner hand in mind?

I used files, chisel blades and nippers to remove any protruding spigots and then I filed in the holes left with some epoxy. A toothpick helped smooth it over and form to the contour of the roof (as best as could be done). Then, I repainted the roof black. It isn't perfect, but it is good enough.

For weathering, pictures from the 1980s showed the caboose also in good shape with little rust evidence. However, it too was filthy. So, I applied a wash of raw umber and let it dry overnight. The next day, I applied a wash of dark umber, which is a much darker color (as the name would apply). This really dirtied it up without making it look worn out. I finished it by drybrushing the smokejack to add rust highlights, as the heat from the smoke exhaust would burn off paint and then the steel would rust. 

I let both cars sit for a week to ensure all the paint had fully dried and then they were given a final coat of flat finish. I can't wait for a layout where I can actually run them!

Weathering O scale freight cars

When I modeled in HO I weathered almost all of my trains. When done carefully and consciously it makes them look more realistic, and I am not really concerned about their resale value. For my O scale (1:48) trains, I also have been weathering them. It is a bit unnerving to make them "uncollectible" but since I am generally paying only about $30-$50 a car I can live with the risk. 

However, I don't weather my tinplate trains or trains that are clearly "toy" proportioned because that would look out of place and ruin their cute, toyish appearance.

I frequently buy my O gauge cars used, so the first step is to look them over and repair broken or missing parts. Sometimes replacement parts are available, and sometimes I have to fabricate them myself. I then partially disassemble them and check for loose parts. Boxcar doors are secured shut (unless I am modeling an open-door car), detail parts like brake wheels that were left unpainted by the manufacturer are painted to match the body, and the car's weight is checked. Everything is given a wash in preparation for weathering.

The wheel faces are brush painted various shades of brown, and the backs and axles are painted flat black to hide their shine and reduce their bulk. Truck sideframe are painted flat black and then highlighted with drybrushed orange rust and brown dirt. The couplers are carefully drybrushed brown so as to not gum them up. The car underframes are sprayed flat black followed by various short bursts of brown and rusty orange. 

The car bodies are given a flat finish and then weathered with oil paint washes and drybrushing to match prototype pictures. Finally, everything is reassembled.

It all takes time, but I enjoy the process. And, after having put 3-5 extra hours into a railcar I can justify its price tag.

I don't have a lot of cars right now, but they are already taking up a lot of space. Each car is 8x the size of its HO equivalent, and that adds up. So, I am slowly adding to my collection one or two cars at a time. I started collecting several years before I started on my layout to spread out the cost. 

On a related note, the O Gauge Magazine's online forum sometimes features pictures by a guy named Steve who goes by the handle "SIRT." In his signature block is a link to his photo albums containing hundreds of pictures of weathered three rail, O gauge cars. They are inspirational for someone weathering in any scale, but more than that they show that you can make really credible looking models from three-rail trains.