A little short circuit!

A little  short circuit can really ruin your day!

After finishing wiring the layout I decided it was time to test it. Nothing formal, just connect leads to various portions of the track with an engine on top. I didn't even bother to clean the rails for the occasion. But, it was important to verify that it worked before I started weathering and ballasting the track. And I am glad I did.

Within seconds I discovered that the right portion of the layout had a short circuit. The left section was fine. So what to do? 

After checking under the layout multiple times to make sure only red feeders were attached to the red bus line, and black feeders to the black bus line, I then printed out my wiring circuit and made sure that I didn't use a red wire where a black one was needed. No wires appeared to be crossed. Perhaps the Atlas crossing I installed should have had gaps cut? I looked online for help and found nothing to suggest I did it wrong. All out of options, there was nothing left to do but cut each feeder (about 20 total) where it joined the bus wire and then start from scratch with new bus wires. 

My wife took pity on me and came to my aid. She offered to operate the transformer above the layout while I reattached each feeder to a new set of bus wires. We had a good scare when she tried different portions of the track and one suddenly showed a short circuit again. WHAT COULD BE WRONG?

Then I saw it. Did you see it in the first picture? If not, look below.

Some of the switches I bought used required me to install jumper wires to connect the inner point rails. The factory bends their jumpers to sit low, but I just used a piece of code 83 nickel silver rail soldered directly to the bottoms of the rails and they were flush with the tops of the ties. I assumed it wouldn't be a problem because they would be hidden with paint and ballast. But... the center black rail had shifted a little and made contact. Barely any contact. But just enough to short out the layout. Using a hammer and a block of wood I gently tapped the black rail back in place then superglued its spikes to keep it from shifting again. I also added a small piece of stripwood in the gap to further prevent any trouble. Problem solved.

Except I still had to go back and reattach all the other feeders. It turned out to be a two-hour job, but at least it had a happy ending. I can't fault the factory for this error as it was entirely mine, but I checked my other switches just in case. And, now I order the jumpers factory installed on the switches! 

Replacing a broken switch

When you buy your track and switches used, you take the risk that they might be damaged. Sadly, one of the switches I purchased was broken but I didn't realize it until it was too late. It looked fine and operated okay when I moved the points by hand with my finger. It was only when I tried to install a ground throw that I realized the problem... the mounting holes where the throwbar attached to the point rails were worn so bad that the point rails slopped around. If I used my finger to push them back and forth they traveled all the way and it was fine, but the caboose industries ground throw didn't push them far enough. I could have rigged some sort of mechanism to try and work around this but instead I did the right thing and just replaced the switch entirely.

I first cut the wires from under the layout that connected to the switch. I tried to pry up just the switch with a putty knife and it started to come free, but suddenly I heard a "schlerup" noise and it popped off the layout taking the wooden tiles and cork roadbed with it. 

It was a simple matter to lay new roadbed and wooden blocks at the benchwork joints, followed by a coat of gray paint.

Finally, the new switch was trimmed to match the specific space vacated by the previous one and installed. Wiring was easier as the replacement already had factory-installed jumper wires underneath connecting all of the smaller pieces of rail. So only one feeder had to be dropped from the two inner rails on the right.

In the future, I will be more careful in my inspection of used switches before installation. 

Two industrial sidings

The right side of my layout will feature a lumberyard and maybe a fuel dealer. I wanted to make the track sidings for each different.

I plan on using the Atlas (formerly Walthers) lumberyard kit for the first, and its foundation dimensions are helpfully available online. So, using full size template I mocked up where the siding leading to it would go. I needed to leave enough room for a forklift to maneuver, and trucks to arrive and depart with their lumber. The scene will be cramped but I can make it work.

For visual interest I wanted the siding leading into the lumberyard to be lower than the main line. Because the layout's base is 2" foam it was an almost-simple matter of marking an outline around the temporarily placed track. I expected to use my newly-acquired hot wire tool, but an issue with its power supply thwarted that. So, instead I cut down with a utility knife along the track and hacked away the middle bits

I did a lot of test fitting as I went along.

I actually cut too much away, so the next step was to use wood shims (pieces of paint stirring sticks) to set the height and cross elevation of the siding. I didn't want it leaning or dipping too much. Lots of caulk and weights held the track it in place until the adhesive cured, and a bubble level made sure it was where I wanted it. Note: at this time the track isn't glued down. It is just laying there.

Then, I generously covered everything with brown paint to protect the foam from any future spray paint. 

After installing feeder wires to the undersides of the rails, the track was finally glued down to the wooden stirrers with caulk.

However, the track was pretty wobbly at this point because it was resting on only a pair of wooden supports. To fill in the cavern beneath it I used some cheap black sand from the craft store I had on hand. No point wasting good ballast on this job as it will all be hidden. The sand was poured in and brushed around, and I tapped the track to help it settle into all the cracks and crevices. I wasn't going for perfect coverage everywhere, as a later layer of dirt and ballast will do that. 

Then, it was flooded with a mixture of alcohol and water and followed up with a copious amount of homemade scenic cement. The entire channel filled up and I could see the sand flow and settle some more. Before it dried I wiped the excess glue off the rails with a paper towel. Note how the alcohol solution I sprayed reacted with the latex paint and turned it green! However, it dried normally.

It took five days to dry and I was concerned that the ties would warp and the rails would rust but that didn't happen. However, to avoid potential issues in the future I bought a small fan from Amazon that I can prop on the layout to get better airflow. This will significantly speed up the drying time.

For the fuel distributor track I wanted it to look older and less well maintained. I started by pre-bending it to shape and then I cut away some ties and re-spaced the remaining ones.

It was laid over a single strip of cork which left the ties hanging over the edges. This will be useful in the future when I ballast this track because the ties will stick out and look old. It doesn't jump out at you in the picture below, but it will be more prominent once the scene is finished.

I may need to extend the track further to all for some more space for a proper bumping post on the end of the siding, important when handling railcars containing dangerous fuel.

This marks the end of my track laying for now. I still have to lay the two sidings on the left of the layout but that area has lots of tools and stuff on it and I haven't quite decided what I want to model industry wise. So it will just sit and wait.

My Little Helper

While Harrison has his own Lionel layout, he has really taken an interest in the O scale layout I am building. As such, I try and think of projects we can work on together. So far, he has helped me squeeze closed "suitcase" connectors during my wiring projects; he has squeezed the trigger on my cordless drill (while I hold it steady) to screw in wiring clamps; and he is always willing to test track clearances and such.

After all the "work" is done, he likes to test out the track by rolling some of his trains back and forth. He has to stand on a stool to reach, but he is learning to be careful and balance properly.

Sarah and I were discussing recently whether his interest in trains will last throughout his life or wane as he gets older. I have no idea, but as she put it: "You really do a lot of train stuff with him". It is true. I don't mind if he has other hobbies in the future, but I will always try to include him in mine if he wants.

Until then, I will take all the help I can get!

PS: I have learned to add temporary buffers to the end of the tracks to keep the trains from rolling off. So far, they have worked.

Installing Ground Throws

I am using Caboose Industries #208S sprung ground throws to control my switches and I needed the two long headblock ties to mount them. Ross switches come from the factory with long headblock ties on both sides for flexibility in mounting the switch controller, but many of my switches were used and the previous owner had trimmed some or all of them away. So, I had to cut and paste new headblocks where necessary. Naturally, I first had to paint and install cork roadbed under the headblock ties to firm them up. 

To mount the ground throws I used #0 wood screws which were 7/16" long. I bought a bag for a couple of bucks on Ebay and they work fine as long as your use the correct sized screw driver. Otherwise, you will easily strip out the screwhead.

It was during this time that I realized one of the used switches I had bought had been abused to the point that the throw rod didn't work properly. There was so much slop in where it had been worn that it wouldn't close properly. I wish I had noticed this before installing it. I really wished I had discovered it before I went to a train show where Ross was selling switches so that I could have easily picked up a new one, but I hadn't. So, I will need to order a new switch and have it mailed to me. Boo.

Oh well. I would rather get it right now before everything is painted and ballasted. In the future I will avoid buying used switches unless I can handle them myself first.